Our last day of the voyage home saw VALIS sailing at good speed under patchy clouds and fresh winds. The evening of Aug 12 was cool, and as the sun set, we sailed through a patch of phosphorescent water. This wasn’t the individual pea-sized glowing creatures that we typically see, but instead the water itself seemed to glow with a bright blue-green
intensity. The whitecaps around the boat were visible to the horizon, and could be easily mistaken for a well-lit ship. When VALIS surged through the swells, the foam and spray created a light strong enough to read by. This persisted for several hours, and then was gone. In its place were again the thousands of individual pinpoint flashes.

While this was happening at sea-level, above we were treated to the fireworks of the Perseid meteor shower. While not as intense as in some previous years, there were still many bright ones, with long sparkling trails. One memorable meteor was aiming directly at VALIS – it looked just like an exploding star.

After a couple of hours the moon began to rise, and the brightening sky washed out all but the largest meteors. We had been expecting to see the Point Reyes lighthouse before sunrise, but the bright moon and the increasing haze in the sky kept us from seeing this landmark.

As the sun rose, the wind dropped. We had intended to sail to the west of the North Farallon Islands (because we had never done it before), but the light wind persuaded us to aim directly for the Golden Gate Bridge instead. While we sailed between the North Farallons and Bolinas Point, we passed some gray whales.

We were also visited by a trio of small birds who were looking for a free ride. They perched on the dodger for about an hour, and then took off once we got closer to the North Farallons.

About this time the wind dropped even more, so we began to motor-sail. The seas had flattened dramatically, and while we were enjoying the calm conditions, we didn’t want to keep our welcoming party waiting for too long. As we approached the channel into the San Francisco Bay, we saw several large ships. Particularly interesting was a tugboat, heading
out to sea with two identical old ships in tow.

We soon sailed under the Golden Gate Bridge, into a very busy bay. Dodging and weaving through the other boats in the suddenly strong winds, we sailed into Richardson Bay and dropped our sails. We then motored into the marina and tied up in our slip, welcomed by our families and friends. It was good to be home, and we were grateful for a wonderful voyage.

Here are some statistics from the voyage home:

Date – Time Distance Average Speed
PDT Nautical Miles Knots
7/25/06 17:00 0
7/26/06 00:00 38.9 5.56
7/27/06 00:00 144.3 6.01
7/28/06 00:00 136.8 5.70
7/29/06 00:00 147.3 6.14
7/30/06 00:00 125.3 5.22
7/31/06 00:00 122.3 5.10
8/01/06 00:00 122.2 5.09
8/02/06 00:00 120.1 5.00
8/03/06 00:00 151.2 6.30
8/04/06 00:00 145.9 6.08
8/05/06 00:00 131.9 5.50
8/06/06 00:00 134.3 5.60
8/07/06 00:00 154.0 6.42
8/08/06 00:00 138.2 5.76
8/09/06 00:00 147.2 6.13
8/10/06 00:00 158.8 6.62
8/11/06 00:00 158.4 6.60
8/12/06 00:00 167.3 6.97
8/13/06 00:00 188.4 7.85
8/13/06 15:30 101.3 6.54

Total Total Average
Hours Distance Speed
454.50 2734.1 6.02

(454.5 Hours is 18 days, 22-1/2 hours)

The maximum wind speed recorded was 34 knots. As this was only sampled
once every ten minutes, the gusts probably exceeded this.

Stay tuned for more photos and useless technical trivia!

Regards,
Paul

Here is a unified trackfile for our voyage from Oahu to San Francisco.
I have made a few changes to the format (which I hope are improvements).
-Paul

HitoSF.kmz

VALIS arrived safely in Sausalito around 3:30PM Sunday, August 13, after a nineteen-day passage from Kaneohe Bay. As we pulled into our slip we were met by friends and family, and toasted to our coming home safely with some very good champagne. Before going our separate ways we all had dinner at the Spinnaker restaurant in Sausalito. While we had a great voyage, it is very nice to be back home.

I will upload details of our last day at sea, trackfiles and perhaps more photos very soon.

Regards,
Paul/VALIS

We have less than 200 miles to go before we tie up in Sausalito, so every indication is that VALIS will be back in her slip on Sunday afternoon or early evening. We have had strong winds and fairly high seas and we continue to charge along towards San Francisco. Our run yesterday (midnight to midnight) was 167 nautical miles, which is our best run yet on the way home. We have been averaging around 8 knots since then, so our last day should give us another fast run. We are bouncing around in the 10-12 foot swells, and are getting thoroughly drenched topsides. We have the hatch closed for the first time in the voyage to Hawaii and back, since splashes have occasionally managed to find their way down the companionway.
Nothing much to report, otherwise. We did fix the Monitor windvane self-steerer: not only had one of the control lines broken, the other had chafed the where the line was worn halfway through (this is worse wear than should be expected, and the Monitor will be given a thorough overhaul before we head out again). By yesterday afternoon the Monitor was again steering for us.
So, we then ate a nice spaghetti dinner, and began our evening watches. The winds were strong, reaching into the low 30-knot range, and we decided to put a second reef in the genoa. We carried on through the night in this configuration as the seas gradually built from 8 feet to 10 feet and perhaps higher (it is extremely difficult to estimate swell height from the deck of a small boat). Phil had first watch, then Davey, John, and Paul. Davey saw winds gusting up to 40 knots during his watch, but the average was closer to 30.
There was an “incident” during Davey’s watch: He was sitting under the dodger when a wave hit VALIS. Typically when this happens the water sprays through the air, across the deck, and into the dodger windows — exciting but harmless. This wave must have had Davey’s name on it, because it took direct aim at the small gaps under the dodger (where a multitude of lines pass through) and, like a firehose, blasted straight into his face. To make matters worse, this caused Davey to dump his mug of hot chocolate all over his “foulies”.
During Paul’s 6:00-9:00AM watch, the boat suddenly started pointing close to the wind, off-course with the sails luffing. The Monitor control lines appeared to be OK, but then Paul noticed that the Monitor’s “oar”, instead of projecting straight down into the water, was trailing behind the boat, being towed by it’s safety line. The sacrificial “breakaway tube” had snapped! This also happened on our previous return from Hawaii, and as far as we can tell for no apparent reason either time. This tube is designed to break if the oar hits something in the water, protecting the rest of the system from damage. We carry a spare tube, but will probably not bother to repair it before we get back. The B&G autopilot is now steering just fine.
As we approach San Francisco, we may take a very slight detour to the south from our current course and sail between the North Farallon and South Farallon Islands. Valis has never had the chance to see the western shore of the North Farallons, and this may be a good opportunity to view the far side of these rugged crags. On the other hand, it may be foggy, or the detour may make us miss a favorable current under the Golden Gate Bridge, so we will decide on our precise course when we are closer.
Tomorrow promises to be a busy day, so our final report may be late in coming. Until then, thank you for sharing our voyage with us — knowing that even a few people have been reading these journal entries has been a great motivator when it comes to writing them.
(trackfile attached)
Regards,
VALIS

valis-aug12.kmz

Greetings from VALIS, making excellent speed towards San Francisco. We are currently (Aug 11, 1:30 PM PDT) at latitude 38deg 57min N, longitude 130deg 10min N. This is 368 nautical miles from the Golden Gate, and about the latitude of Point Arena. Our speed is 7+ knots and we are sailing 100deg true. Wind is 24 knots, from the north. Seas are moiderate and it is overcast and decidedly cool.
Yesterday was reasonably uneventful: we sailed, read books, ate the last of our tuna, stood our evening watches, etc. What our loogbook only hints at is just how enjoyable it all is (but I have to admit that we are all anxiously counting the hours until we arrive back home). The log is a notebook where I (Paul) note, on an irregular basis, the time, our position, speed and course, then wind speed and direction, and in a tiny column at the edge of the page notes on sail changes and anything else of interest. On the facing page I note battery condition, watermaker run times, and anything that doesn’t fit elsewhere.
Here is a sample entry from yesterday:
19:15 39deg 19min 132deg 38min 085deg 7kt 19kt 65deg port Stys’l full
Not very romantic, is it? What it says, though, is that at 7:15 PM we are sailing fast and on-course to San Francisco. The winds have been steady and we have decided to add the staysail The 2′nd-reefed main, 2′nd-reefed genoa and a full staysail are appropriate for the wind speed and angle, and appropriate for the seas; the swell height and direction.
At 9:00PM the log notes 23 knot winds. At 9:08 a log entry says “genoa furled”. We are being overpowered by the rising wind and have decided to keep things under control as the evening commences by bringing in the genoa. We are now under reefed main and staysail, which means VALIS is now heeling less (she had been heeling 15-25 degees — not unusual, but living at 25 degrees isn’t very comfortable, either).
Watches start at 9:00, with Davey on first.
A log entry comment at Aug 11, 00:00 says “160 miles” — The Pacific Cup return fleet radio schedule has begun, and I will report our midnight position. We have sailed 160 miles since the previous midnight, which happens to be our best run so far on the return. The boats report their position, their wind speed and wind direction, which I copy on a notepad. I make particular note of two boats: “California Girl”, and “Stray Cat Blues”. “Cal Gal” left for San Francisco a couple of days before us, and Davey had planned to ride home on her (he raced to Hawaii on her). It was going to be very crowded, with six on board the small 40-foot sloop,and since we wanted a fourth crewmwmbwe, we offered Davey a ride home with us. Cal Gal has been sailing hard, against the wind across the bottom of the Pacific High, and is now fighting her way north to San Francisco. This has to be tough sailing, but she is making good speed and should be in port within two days.
“Stray Cat Blues” left Kaneohe Bay with us, and we have been following her progress as well. She is a smaller, “racier” boat than VALIS, and while sailing the same general route as us, is now about one day ahead of us.
Once the position reports are concluded, We are called by “Hooligan”. After leaving Oahu, she spent several days in Hanele Bay on Kauaii, and has been sailing home for a few days now. We have previously given her weather information, and we discuss the position of the High. We also discuss radio installations, since VALIS has had a consistently good signal. Hooligan is home-ported in Sausalito (as is VALIS), and we talk about marinas, the town, boats in general and particular, future cruising plans, and perhaps getting together for some local sailing one of these days.
Log entry: 01:01 — “Head seas”
We are pounding into head seas. This isn’t supposed to be happening! In addition to the swells from the northwest, there are swells from the northeast superimposed. They are probably from the gales along the coast north of us, and VALIS forces her way through them.
Log entry 01:54 — “Monitor line broken, under B&G compass”
John is on watch, and he has just heard the sound of one of the windvane steering lines parting. He rushes back to the wheel, disengages the Monitor windvane autopilot, and hand-steers us back on course. About this time I poke my head on deck, having noticed something different. John engages the B&G electronic autopilot and finishes disconnecting the Monitor. We decide to let the B&G steer through the night and look at the Monitor after it gets light. While the Monitor is a great piece of gear, it is prone to having these steering lines chafe and break. We keep a supply of spare line on hand for this.
Log entry 03:50 — “Genoa #2″
I am on watch. T he winds have shifted and dropped, and the staysail isn’t giving us the power we need to punch through the head seas. Our speed has dropped to under 5 knots. I re-lead the genoa furling line so I can do this without waking up the off-watch, and I unfurl the genoa to the second reef point. This is much better.
Log entry 04:30 — “Genoa #1, Stays’l furled”
The genoa is flogging more than I like. I furl the staysail, and unroll the genoa to the first reefpoint. This keeps our sail area about right, and with the different configuration the genoa flys much better. I could have adjusted the position of a block (pulley) instead, but that would have meant crawling out on the deck, on the low side, in the dark and the waves. I don’t want to do that unless someone else is topside with me.
I sit in the cockpit, or under the dodger when it is drizzling, and stand the rest of my watch. The horizon must be scanned for ships every few minutes, I have to make sure that we are staying on course, trim the sails if the wind speed or direction changes, watch and listen for anything going wrong, and generally stay tuned to the boat. The skies are mostly cloudy, but from time to time the moon appears between the gaps and the seas sparkle. VALIS continues to sail through the confused swells, occasionaly tossing a spray of diamonds into the moonlight as her bow crests a wave. The swells and whitecaps surround us out to the unbroken horizon. The moon is once again hidden, and the stars are revealed in the clear sky ahead. The 3:00 to 6:00 AM watch is usually considered the worst, but I am grateful to be out here tonight in these glorious conditions. I reflect on the nature of sailing, how we work with these uncontrollable and unpredictable forces of nature, doing the best we can. Sometimes conditions are perfect, other times we have a struggle, but we trim sails, adjust course and strategy, and usually manage to get where we need to go. Not a bad lesson!
The wind is up again, and we are heeling over 25 degrees. But VALIS is loving it, and we are sailing fast towards home. I am almost sorry when my watch is over, but Phil comes up, I brief him on the conditions and configuration, then quickly crawl into my bunk and fall asleep.
———
There is a lot that is hidden between the lines in a logbook.
Sincerely,
VALIS
(see atached trackfile)

valis-aug11.kmz

What a difference a day makes. Yesterday we were sailing gently downwind, waiting for the wind to swing around and come from the north. Well, in the afternoon it started to swing and within a couple of hours we had our full-blown northerlies. We started with all plain sails flying (main, staysail, genoa), and as the wind started to increase from 12 knots, 15, 20, 25, and last night gusting to 30 knots, we gradually reduced sail. First we furled the staysail, then put the first reef in ther main, then first-reefed reefed the genoa, second-reefed the main, second-reefed the genoa, and finally furled the genoa and re-set the staysail. We sped through the night, with the larger swells from the north mixing with the smaller ones from the west, and have been making good time towards San Francisco.
It is cooler now, with occasional drizzle rinsing off the salt-spray from the random waves that slap the side of the hull with a bang — VALIS shudders slightly, then regains her speed. Since we jibed yesterday, we have had to get used to everything now sliding to starboard, and have had to find new favorite spots for stashing a mug of tea.
We haven’t seen any ships for several days now, but yesterday we were visited by several large albatrosses, as they flew by VALIS to see what was going on. They didn’t stay long, but was a treat to watch these fellow long-distance travellers soar and glide, often only inches from the water’s surface.
Our midnight-to-midnight run was 158 NM, our best so far on the return. Currently (Aug 10, 1:30 PM PDT) we are at latitude 39deg 30min N, longitude 133deg 22min W, sailing 100 deg true at 6 knots. The wind is around 20 knots.
Attached is ourmost recent trackfile
Regards,
VALIS

valis-aug10.kmz

Good afternoon from VALIS, about 685 miles from San Francisco.
Our current position (Aug 9, 1:45 PM PDT) is latitude 39deg 59min N, longitude 136deg 54min W — notice that we have once again (and finally, we hope) gone south of 40deg latitude, and are on a good course for home. We are sailing at 6.5 knots on a course of 110deg true. Wind is about 14 knots, from the east.

We are still expecting the wind to start coming from the north in short order. Apparently the high pressure that we have been sailing up and over has pushed in below and ahead of us, which is giving us these west winds for now.
The wind shifted a bit more yesterday afternoon, to where we could make our course on more of a broad reach, instead of almost downwind as we had been doing). This let us drop the pole and put the genoa to port — keeping the main to port as well. We also set the staysail, which adds a little bit of push at this wind angle. This is a faster point of sail, so we were happy for the change. We have sailed all through the night and into the afternoon in this configuration, with the Monitor windvane doing the steering. We keep an eye on our course, waiting for the inevitable wind shift (which looks like it may be starting now).
Phil and John prepared a delicious tuna over rice for dinner, then after the sun set we watched the DVD “The Usual Suspects” in the cockpit, with the laptop sitting on the bridge-deck, above the companionway. The cockpit speakers were cranked way up and we had a true cinematic experience (almost).
Last night we shifted our watch schedules ahead by an hour. Instead of starting at 10:00PM, they now start at 9:00 to better match the changing times of sunset and sunrise as we continue to sail east. Paul had the 9:00 watch, Phil had midnight, Davey had 3:00AM, and John got 6:00.
Weather has been sunny, with some clouds. It is cooler, but still very comfortable. The swells are about 3 feet, and the sailing is comfortable.
Google Earth trackfile attached.
Regards,
VALIS

valis-aug09.kmz

This taken as VALIS sails towards the Golden Gate, on the morning of August 9.

Greetings from VALIS this Tuesday, August 8. Our position as of 1:20PM PDT is:
Latitude 40deg 25min N, Longitude 140deg 17min W. We are sailing 085degrees true at 6.4 knots. Winds are from the west at 13 knots. Seas are from the west at 3 feet.
Yesterday afternoon we decided to run “wing and wing”, using the spinnaker pole to hold the genoa out to port, and the main out to starboard. This let us run almost directly downwind, and closer to our destination.
John had the first watch, and had to endure a light drizzle. The rest of the evening was mostly cloudy, but there was no more rain until sunrise. Visibility was occasionally limited, so we ran the radar from time to time.
This morning we jibed, switching sides on the main and genoa, in order to sail a bit more south (still slightly north of due east, though). We expect the winds to shift to the north later today, or perhaps tomorrow, and then we will steer directly for San Francisco, with all sails to starboard.
After breakfast (cereal, with our first batch of powdered milk), Phil was contemplating the prospect of dining on canned chicken for the rest of the trip, so he decided to put the fishing line back in the water. Within five minutes he had a strike: a medium tuna. We got the fish on board, gave it a drink of rum, and then Phil filleted it. We now have fresh fish for at least two meals.
Not much more to say — we are dozing, reading, checking the weather charts, and generally enjoying a nice day. Our track for the last 24 hours (with a gap – bad software), is in the attached google earth file.
Regards,
VALIS

valis-aug08.kmz

We are getting close: only 970 miles to go until we sail under the Golden Gate Bridge. We seem to have sailed over the top of the Pacific High (although we may have some light and frustrating winds in the next day or so), and we are well on our way towards the “Northerlies”, which are the typical winds along the coast. As we approach the coast we will be entering the “squash zone”, where the northerlies strengthen and the swells increase. The forecasts at this point don’t show anything out of the ordinary. It is starting to look like our original estimate of a three-week passage will end up being pretty close.
If you look at the attached Google Earth trackfile, you will see that during the evening yesterday and early this morning our course gradually swung more and more south, as the wind shifted to the north. Around 4:00AM we decided to jibe, which involved swinging the asymmetrical spinnaker and the main from the port to the starboard side. Once this was accomplished we were back on course to San Francisco. Since then, the wind has shifted back to be more from the West and we are sailing about 60 degrees true, which is north of our goal (but not so far that jibing again would be a help). We do want to approach San Francisco from the north, which will let us run more downwind and be more comfortable than if we attempt to approach from the south, so we are happy to sail as we are for now.
We sighted a ship just before midnight, and tracked it on radar (just for practice). We didn’t attempt to call on the VHF.
Around noon today we dropped the spinnaker, since the 20-knot winds and swells were making it hard to keep on course. Instead, we put up the genoa, and this smaller sail helps us keep things under control. We are sailing a bit slower, but our average speed is about 7 knots which is just fine.
Dinner last night was spaghetti with sausages in the sauce, a good meal in this cooling weather. This morning Phil made pancakes and bacon, which was a great feat given the rolling of the boat while we were flying the spinnaker. He managed to get the food to our bowls and keep it off the floor — thank you!
We currently have patchy clouds, and occasional drizzle between the periods of sunshine.
Our position is latitude 39deg 45min N, longitude 143deg 08min W. We are sailing 060deg true at 6.8 knots. Winds are 18 knots from the west.
Regards,
VALIS

valis-aug07.kmz