Wow three months have passed so quickly. Although fun and leisurely it feels as though they were packed with activity. Now it’s finally time to catch up on the journal.

Jim and I (Alice) took the overnight ferry from Lakota to Savusavu. I was pleased to find that it was safe to leave our belongings on our seats and wander about. I was also pleased to find plenty of empty berths, one in particular calling out to be occupied. So we were able to get a good night’s sleep. We arrived fed and refreshed at 8AM in the morning. I was greeted on INTENTION with beautiful home cut multi-colored tropical flowers from Bogi, Jim’s Fijian friend.

It is lovely here, gently swaying palm trees, all the green leaves interspersed with colorful pinks reds and yellows, and warm calm blue-green water. I have been most amazed by the schools of flying fish that glide like silver birds in a low arc over the water. Most nights are clear and the stars are prolific. There are trees along the bank that lean out over the water. They invite the children to climb out among their ferny leaves and jump splashing into the water. The people are friendly. We are greeted with “Bula” (hello) as we walked down the street.

Jim introduced me to Jeff and Christie, a cruising couple he has known since 1992. They both play ukuleles and have teaching material to share with me. I guess bringing a ukulele that I don’t know how to play was the right move.

VILLAGE TRIP

View from Village

Jim, Alice, Ratu with grand child

Less than a week here and we have been invited by Bogi to his village, Boca Village. There will be a funeral. We thought it was an odd time to go but Bogi assured us it was an ideal time to visit. There will be a feast and a ceremony.

We loaded a truck taxi with bags of sugar and flour as well as taro, cassava and of course kava. Six of us, Bogi his wife and three children, his brother, Jim and I, piled in for the hour and a half ride to the village. We were warmly welcomed and provided a room in the Ratu’s (chief of the village) home. Bogi is the second son of the Ratu. We were fed cassava, taro and taro leaves.

Cassava is a starchy root crop, it grows easily and abundantly. Bogi gave us a tour of the gardens. We were shown how the cassava is pulled from the ground and tubers cut off. Then the stem is cut into 15 inch pieces and shoved back into the ground to grow again.

Bogi opening young coconut

Jim drinking his fill

There is an abundance of coconut. The young coconut water is tasty, cool and refreshing. Also it is reported by the AMA that it reduces blood pressure. I was shown how to make the coconut milk from the mature coconuts. The mature meat is scraped into a large bowl and water added, just enough to cover the grated coconut. The coconut is squeezed several times through the water. The white milky liquid is poured off to be used in the cooking. I was glad to learn that Jim has a coconut scraper on INTENTION.

Village Children

A motley crew of butchers for the funeral feast

Dressed for the Funeral

I was given a tour of the village by Bogi’s five-year-old, cute, talkative daughter. She attempted to teach me some Fijian words. That evening the men sat around drinking kava. Kava is a liquid that acts as a mild sedative. It is made from a woody root. The root is pounded in a tall narrow bowl by the men to get a powder. The powder is then mixed with water. The taste is less than pleasant. If you enjoy drinking brown dirty dishwater you will love kava.

Kava ceremony with Ratu

Jim hanging out with the guys

The following day was the funeral. Jim was given a pink sulu to wear. The sulu is a large piece of colorful cloth about 2 yards wide that is wrapped around the waist as a traditional dress. I was given a skirt and blouse.

Beautiful mats awaiting casket

The funeral was in a neighboring village, a short walk down a dirt road. The men were gathered outside under a canopy sitting on woven mats, drinking kava. Jim joined them. I joined the women inside the house. They were sitting on the floor, around the walls of a large living room, singing hymns. The casket arrived by truck and was placed on the mats outside. Some of the women wailed and some of the men spoke praise or prayers. Then the casket was brought into the house and the sobbing became more intense. Afterwards most everyone headed to an open grassy area where large amounts of food had been prepared. There was a procession with the casket to the church. After the church service everyone hiked up a hill to the beautiful burial site. Most of the two villages participated. It was a slow day, with time to rest and walk around. The funeral took from morning until late afternoon. Jim and I spent one more night at the Ratu’s home and left on the bus to Savusavu the following morning.

Burial site overlooking Boca Bay & Village

Hello everyone, I’ve been continuing to clean the black mold and green growth from inside and outside of INTENTION. It has been raining almost every day since I got here. Which means some days not much gets accomplished. Oh well, I just have to sit back and enjoy myself, my friends, and the wonderfully friendly Fijians. With the help of mind cruising friends, Jeff and Christie, I have been discovering new recipes and exciting foods to try here in Fiji. I tried a new version of a Waldorf salad with dried cranberries instead of raisins. Of course there were the usual apples, walnuts, and mayonnaise. The flavor was very unique and tasty. I met Jeff and Christie at the market last Saturday morning and Christie showed me some interesting little green berries. They look like good size caviar and taste very much like caviar too. They are called namas and we split an order. They have a wonderful little crunchiness to them and a salty taste again like caviar. They added texture and taste to my onion and tomato omelet. I also like their crunchiness when I added them to my tuna fish and walnut salad sandwich. Best Foods mayonnaise is very expensive here so Christie gave me the recipe and I’m going to make my own and try adding additional ingredients like powdered mustard seed and white pepper to give it a little different flavor. Just might substitute lime juice for the usual ingredient of vinegar. As you can tell I’m having fun playing in the kitchen now that it’s cleaned up well enough to use easily. Up till now I’ve been getting my exercise by walking, swimming, and by rowing my small hard dingy to shore and back on a daily basis but especially when I need to do shopping. Because of needing to ferry mechanics and tools multiple times a day, I assembled my ten foot inflatable dingy and mounted my 5 HP Suki outboard which ran very erratically, but has settled down to to Early run at a slow idle and at least get us there. The reason for the engine’s poor performance may have been the drying out/shrinking of the carburetor gaskets from 6 months of disuse.  Now that I can get the RPM’s higher, the propeller clutch is slipping and the inflatable still will not travel faster than a slow idle again.  This engine is a four cycle and weighs more than my 8 hp two cycle outboard, because of this I would really like to get a light two or 3 hp outboard in its place.  And anything that is light enough for me to be able to just lift on an off the dingy would be ideal.
I am starting the engine work on INTENTION’s SABB diesel which blew a head gasket.  I am using the assistance of a local mechanic by the name of Sen Lee and his nephew.  In the Polynesian culture, uncle’s have the same responsibilities as and act as fathers.  And, Bogi, calls him father.  He  and I worked for 4 hours on Thursday and got much of the engine disassembled lightening it to mainly make hoisting it out of INTENTION and into a  local Fijan’s  skiff.  After another 4 hours of removing the motor mounts and rigging a block and tackle from the boom on Friday the still very heavy block and flywheel was finally taken ashore to the mechanic’s shop.  We cleaned up the engine some and celebrated with a few beers.  I have been able to see for the first time in 25 years the mess  of dirty, greasy, gunk that has accumulated.  Then Saturday, Bogi, his girl friend, Terri,  and two year old Bogi junior came out to INTENTION to help me clean up the mess in the inaccessible place under the engine.  While junior took a long nap, Bogi cleaned up the engine room and Terri washed the dishes and some of the decks.  Bogi has 3 children by Terri and yet no marriage is expected.  He is also the second son of the chief or Ratu of the village he’s from.  He has lived with his uncle, Sen Lee, most his life who has taught him an excellent skill of being a mechanic and understanding machinery.  I met his biological father, the Ratu, on Monday and he invited me for a special feast out at his village which is on an island about a days sail away from Savusavu.  Bogi and I have made plans to make that sail after the repair of INTENTION’S engine are complete.   Sunday was about putting the sails and boom back together after using it as a lifting hoist for the engine,  and after it began raining for the rest of the day and most of the night as I put away and organized tools and the inside of INTENTION.
The following Friday exactly to the hour one week later,  the cleaned and fresh blue painted SABB block old and flywheel rejoined us here on INTENTION.  We decided to use the old connecting rod bearings temporally as the replacment bearings are not arriving from SABB Norway until much later.  After the motor mounts were attached to the hull, the new head gasket and  rebuilt head was slowly torqued to the block.  The installation of important parts like the coolant tank, heat exchanger cooling pump, alternator, and starter motor and making  plumbing and electrical connections will be accomplished tomorrow, Saturday.  Then just after adding some oil, coolant and water, comes the real test, to see if she starts and runs.
Success, by 4 PM Saturday she was running  and the propeller was turning.  Not everything having to do with the engine is completed or put quite right, but INTENTION and I are feeling much happier with this big job being mostly done.  Soon we will be back to catching up on maintenance and having some more sailing adventures and exploring new areas of Fiji.
Monday, they were back on INTENTION completing the job of connecting the controls and making another greasy mess after I spent most of Sunday Cleaning the outside  and organizing the inside.  A fellow cruiser, Doug on a Bristol Channel Cutter RENAGADE, came over to fix the timing on  my Sailrite sewing machine but after two and a half hours later it still needed more work.  It was hard work and I appreciated his effort. We’re planning on giving it another shot in a week or two.
At the end of April I took a great overnight ferry, the WESTERLAND, to Latokato get my spare fuel injectors and injector pump on the SABB rebuilt and meet my new crew, Alice, at Nadi Airport.  Also visited my shipping company to handle forwarding to Savusavu my boxes of of engine parts and personal items being shipped from the US  that is scheduled to arrive in the first half of May.

Hi everyone,

After a 4 month stay in California taking care of some business and my 86 year old mother’s failing health, I returned to my cruising lifestyle and my boat, INTENTION. I arrived in Savusavu, Fiji at 6:30 a.m. 3/30 yesterday morning and walked to the Copra Shed where my cruising friends Jeff and Christie are docked. They were still asleep so I left my baggage next to their boat and walked into town to discover what damage cyclone Tomas’ 140 mph winds had caused. Most evident was the absence of the green leaves that were stripped from the trees. Given the possibility, there was little real damage to the town besides the clean-up of the blown leaves, branches, and debris. I met and accompanied more cruising friends Sean and Sharon who were on their way to their shirt printing business, Windward Apparel, to visit and catch up on the local news and gossip. After continuing my walk and returning to find Jeff and Christie up and about, they feed me a fabulous breakfast of fresh fruit, a poached egg, and a NZ favorite “Vegemite” on toast. They then gave me and all my stuff a dingy ride out to INTENTION. She is in great shape, given the possibility of damage with cyclone Tomas. Surprisingly the bow lines holding her to the mooring ball were not hardly chafed. After being away for 4 months there is the usual mold, dirt, and grime to clean up in all the lockers and surfaces with a solution of soap, bleach, and vinegar. Also, testing and repairing the inoperative equipment that just seems to stop working while away and reinstalling sails, and just generally putting INTENTION back together. After checking all the wiring I just got the refrigeration working again. This should all keep me busy for the next month and beyond. It’s really never ending.
The days are warm and to cool off, i took a leisurely hour long swim through the anchorage. I’ve missed my swimming, best exercise going.
This morning I have been busy connecting my extra solar panels, moving the inflatable dingy, and kayak on deck, creating some living space below. I’ve noticed signs of the very high winds like the chafing through and breaking of my mainsail lazy-jacks, most of the LPU paint on my hard dingy has been striped away, tears in my mainsail cover even with it having been tightly lashed down. The almost daily wash-down shower started as I was having l lunch of a can of tuna flakes some fruit. While digesting lunch I am typing a few more lines on this email. The small shower turned into a 4 hour torrential down pour filling my heard dingy almost to the point of capsizing with wonderful soft freshwater for laundry. Getting the mold out of the clothes, sheets and towels left on the boat can be a difficult problem with little black dots of mold stain never being removed. The gift of all this water will allow me to get a start on the laundry and I already have a couple of loads soaking . No swimming today as the water was muddy and full of debris. Tomorrow morning I’ll get up early rinse the laundry, take a long walk before shopping and internet, if it is working,
With all I have to do, I am not sure if I will have time for crew right now. I have some major engine work to do and it would not be a fun mess for crew to live in. If you can, please stand by.
Love,
Jim

Hi everyone
Just departed Nuku’alofa, Tonga bound for Fiji
12 noon local time or 0000 GMT Light winds making 3 knots under jib an staysail. Electronic autopilot not working. It feels hot but not sure if it is from the the sun or the inside. I will try to find the instruction /trouble shooting book. I will it look into later. Windvane seems to be handling it fine.
0100 GMT at outer marker of Tongatapu Harbor. change of course, 310T to miss the new Island formed by the volcanic eruption in June and for Savusavu, Fiji. More wind 15 kts., sailing downwind, still jib and staysail averaging 4.5 knots. Seas are small bbut building rolling from side to side, sometimes dramaticly, stuff in lockers making noises shifting around.
0600 I set the big free standing wire luff drifter on the starboard and a polled out jib on the port side heading directly down wind wit a speed of 5.0 to 5.5 knots. I am steering to miss the last island of Tonga, Hung Ha’apai before the Lau group of Fiji which will be days away.
0800
Watched the sunset in the cockpit while having dinner of peanut lamb Thai curry on a bed of rice. Lots of colors and clouds on the horizon so no green flash.
2100 GMT
Blew out tack of drifter at 4 AM. Moon down and dark as night. Had things under control in 30 min. Proceeded more north under jib and staysail leaving the windvane to easily steer. Just as I finished, I took a moment to watch the sky for about 20 min. as it was lighting slightly, then more and more and eventually with light pinks and yellows. Greeting another blessed day.
2300 GMT
Had vitamins, powdered greens in cranberry/grape juice. Discovered the wire tack of the drifter pulled out so I need to find my swedging tool and swedges to fix. I put the drifter away and got out the cruising spinnaker. It took a while to set it all up and get it out of its spinnaker sock and flying on the starboard side with a polled out main boom and the jib polled out on the port side making 5 to 6 knots on the GPS. Wine vane is steering OK, got occasionally confused last night. The jib collapses when surfing down a wave.
2400 or 0000
I had eggs in a hole, Orange juice, and a banana. This is a hole made in a slice of bread , butter fried on each side and an egg put in the hole to keep it from running around the pan in a seaway, or in this case, rolling downwind.
that’s all for day one.
Love,
Jim

After a wonderful 4 month visit in cold rainy California, I returned on March 17 th to INTENTION in Tonga for cleanup, doing new projects, and repairs and maintenance. Sometimes A little, sometimes a little more each day eventually creates accomplishments. I was informed by my Tongan friend, Sifa, INTENTION had been robbed and the thief had been caught and most of the stuff returned. The weather is sunny & warm, in the low 80′s, so requires at least one swim a day to keep cool. It cools off to the 70′s in the nights and evenings and sometimes it’s more comfortable using a fan to keep the air moving if the air is still. Humidity is present but not oppressive. The first box has not arrived so no windlass or refrigeration. Have been cleaning the boat and throwing away old/spoiled food in lockers to have space to store new stuff.
There is very hot new beachfront property available from this newly erupting volcano and it is fun to watch from a distance this newest island in Tonga being formed. Sifa & I could see off in the distance from onboard INTENTION in the harbor lots of large billowy clouds of smoke and steam almost due North & small 3 foot waves after the earthquake this morning but all is well here in Nuka’alofa. There is about 200 yards of very hot new island next to the deserted and now devoid of green and devastated island of Hunga about 30 miles north of Nuka’alofa.
I’ve received my first box and have INTENTION’s refrigeration working but the windlass installation is going much slower as the daily rain showers are holding up having things dry enough to do the epoxy reinforcing of the deck where the windlass is. I always want it to be as strong as possible. I’m still not certain of exactly how to go about repairing the problem with the jammed variable pitch propeller. I hope I do not have to sail up to Va’vau to get hauled-out although it would allow me to get the welding done to repair the muffler too.
I introduced Patti to Melaia, a Tongan friend who lived and raised her children for 30 years in the US, in Nuku’alofa. They hit it off right away. Today Tuesday, Melaia flue on the local little puddle jumper, they call Chathem Air, to Ha’pai, Pangi and Patti’s. She is going to visit & see Patti’s newly opened Resort, now called Serenity Beach, and to counsel/advise her how to do business in Tonga. While there Melaia met Kelly and they became good friends. Had great fun watching the sunset having drinks at Fish Club one night and a delicious fish dinner the next night just before Kelly was flying to Auckland and then back to LAX/US.
April 6, 2009
I’ve been busy preparing for and cleaning up after the category 2 cyclone we had yesterday. LIN is my first tropical cyclone experience in the Southern Hemisphere and I was thankful it had a small diameter. INTENTION and I are just fine even with the winds blowing at 65 knots sustained and 85 knot gusts during the worst. Winds Changed direction almost 180 degrees after the lull in the eye of the storm came over the top of us. Rain blowing at that speed stung like needles as I was crawling around the deck checking lines and chafe gear. In the gusts INTENTION was leaning over at 35 to 45 degrees just with the force of the wind against the hull. I had 3 anchors on the bow, 1 plow straight ahead with 275 feet of 5/16 chain and two Danforth anchors with chain & rope rode out at 45 degrees on each side of the plow. The six stern lines I had tied to the breakwater kept INTENTION safe. It is a good thing I stayed with INTENTION the whole time as I put out many fenders when another boat came within a meter of INTENTION after one of their lines let go, and the port bow anchor broke loose from the bottom just before the eye came through. During the lull another line to shore got the other boat stabilized. The winds subsided to 10-15 knots and I watched a beautiful sunset with red and pink billowy clouds while drinking a cold beer thankful to be alive and feeling blessed.
On the Friday before the Sunday cyclone I realized that $100 TOP was missing from my wallet and upon further inspection another $25 US had been removed too. I then went aboard INTENTION to look in the my passport pouch to discover the $2,000 US I had put away for business start-up and emergency funds were totally gone. Sifa asked everyone and all denied knowing anything. They removed themselves from the boat before I had an opportunity to call the police. The next day I went to the police station and filed a report. At times I can let it go, see it as perfect, and chalk it up to another learning experience. Some times I get sucked in and need to immediately begin meditating to get back to my inner love, peace, & calm. I opened my heart to include them, was buying most of their food, and providing a place for them to stay.
I’m still installing the windlass. It needs another part from Port Supply. I will be working on the engine controls and if I can use a fellow cruiser’s dive equipment hopefully carefully examine and repair the jammed propeller this week. The boat is still in front of the Fish Club Bar and I won’t move INTENTION until after the end of this month when cyclone season ends. There’s Lots of wind today with occasional showers. They didn’t get my second box trans-shipped in American Samoa so it did not arrive last week as scheduled. Next ship from American Samoa is due 4/25.
Love, Jim

King’s Coronation
The adventure continues. From here we set sail for the Vava’u group and hopefully in time to take in some coronation ceremonies. There are mixed feelings among the people for the king. He and his family have made some rather poor choices around money which actually belonged to the people so there was rampant burning in Tongatapu in 06. However, I have seen many mothers making intricate decorations for their children to wear in honor of the king’s visit as well as hearing bands practicing and school children singing in anticipation of his visit. The king will visit each of the three groupings in August.

Flower decorations

Tongan Naval marching band

August 30, 2008
Aloha from the kingdom of Tonga,

Kings Coronation Celebration

Arches built in Hap’ai for the King’s Coronation

Yes, the Kingdom of Tonga is one of the few monarchies left in the world. What an amazing adventure to witness some of the celebration ceremonies in crowning the new king who is around 60 years old. We sailed to Ha’apai islands to be part of the 3 day activities here. The first day featured a parade in western style through the main street in town. Arches were built over it with pictures of the king and well wishing signs surrounded by coconut palm fronds and leis of flowers as well as colorful and shiny plastic and tinsel decorations. That day the king was given gifts of pigs, horses, and goats. The next day, the King wearing native dress was honored in the local rugby field across from the palace.

Tents and King’s Throne

Here colorful tents in the national colors of red and white were set up. The King and the immediate royal family walked onto the field from the palace across the street to a main tent that was higher than the other tents.

Food for the King & the Nobles

Tongans came by boat from all of the surrounding islands to dance and sing traditional songs for the king. Some of the 4 part songs were composed for the occasion. The men danced on one side of a line which was very animated and on many levels, even jumping and rolling on the ground. The women were on the other side dancing more graceful sedate movements with a lot of head and hand movements. Some of the dancers gleamed in the sunlight from the coconut oil that was glistening on their bodies. Each village had different colors of the traditional garb of white blouse, long skirt with an overlay of a straw woven mat tied around the waist with a leaf or woven colored leis around their necks and head pieces of feathers, leaves or straw.

Dancers

After each village performance gifts of taditional handmade items, tapa cloths, necklaces, and carvings were given to the King. The marching military brass band also performed in their striking English style uniforms playing fantastically well arranged western marches and popular songs. After the 4 hour entertainment, there was a huge feast of local cuisine as suckling whole piglets, cassava, sweet potato and cans of soda set on low tables on straw mats for all to eat their fill. The third day was another parade to the airport where the king flew off to another celebration.

Tongan Women’s Coronation Formal ware

Tongan Men’s Formal ware

Jim sitting with the Commoners waiting for the King

King passes by – Jim’s hair below

King’s Palace in Ha’pai

Deserted islands

We stocked up on the local market foods of canned peanuts, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, peppers, sweet potatoes and headed to find lush, lovely stunning deserted island jewels where we could romp in the warm, clear waters in our birthday suits. Captain Jim and I sharpened his machete and we managed to gather a few low hanging coconuts and hack our way to coconut water refreshment. Yummy.It seems the coconut water is very high in electrolytes as well as very delicious white meat for snacking. It felt as though we were in the center of a travel poster of island life. The underwater scenery was varied and gorgeous, from cliff drop-offs to sandy layered blue waters with many types of coral in lavenders, pinks, white, greens and blues as well as fish of all sizes shapes and colors. Truly I am so blessed to experience this Tongan life.

Dingy on deserted island beach with Intention anchored off

Musical Tongan Event

In the Vavau island group, we arrived too soon to experience the coronation ceremonies. Actually the king was to arrive but postponed the trip for 2 weeks. Events and planned activities took place anyway. One such event was a concert by Angela Afeaki. She is a New Zealander who is from a musical family in Tonga. She came back for the festivities to perform. I learned of the event by meeting her and her mother setting up places in town to sell her new CD, Tongan Rendezvous. So I gathered a few cruisers and we showed up at 7:30 thinking we were late. As island time has it, the MC kept waiting for the seats to fill up so the show actually began 2 hours later. In the meantime, we danced and listened to very loud DJ popular western music. We westerners encouraged the kids to get up and dance with us. Angela was a talented singer and to our delight sang many Tongan songs. Angela and I exchanged CD’s and email addresses wishing that we had had some time to sing together.

Orion, the pig farmer

I have been here almost 2 months now and am starting to have a Tongan family. As I am becoming friends with some of the folks, I am finding that everyone is someone’s cousin.
Jim and I took Sifa from the Haipai group with us to Tongatapu, the southern island chain, for a week’s sail and stopped at some wonderful islands on the way. Sifa taught us how to open coconuts, related some of the myths of the islands, taught us more Tongan language, and showed us how to gather some of the foods of the islands such as beans growing in the wild. We sailed to a few fabulous islands.

Kelafelisa Island

One was Kelafelisa, a small picturesque island surrounded by reefs, clear beautiful azure waters, fabulous snorkeling scenery and rugged cliffs. As we explored the island we met his cousin, Orion, related through his father’s side who is living on the island by himself running a pig farm there. This means he cuts open coconuts for the wild pigs and his dogs to eat. Once a month or so depending on the seas, his son comes to bring supplies such as rice and crackers and take some of the pigs to another island to sell. Orion is an old-timer living a simple life in a Tongan fale, put together with coconut trees, corrugated tin siding and palm fronds. His furniture is made from sapling trees and coconut fronds. He cooks on an outdoor fire with a few beat up pans. In the middle of the small island are some papaya trees, a breadfruit tree and of course the coconut. He has a smile on his face and is so happy to meet his cousin Sifa for the first time. We invited Orion to dinner on the boat with us to share in a feast of rice, salad leftovers, umu (earth oven Tongan traditional cookery) goodies of tapioca (a white yam like starch) yams and breadfruit from another island adventure we had. Sifa caught some fish and plucked some large clams from the coral which he made into a raw fish salad with coconut milk, tingly red hot chili peppers, onions and tomatoes. Another boat sailed in so we invited them also. Turns out they had a larger table onboard so we all went over there for a feasting evening and lots of laughter, music and match puzzle tricks. Orion through Sifa thanked us all for a lovely evening saying we were the first yachts to invite him aboard. He had tears in his eyes as he expressed his gratitude to us. We left him with some extra supplies and a promise to return in a week or so with more goodies for him from the big town. We all were very moved by his simple life and generous heart. We are looking forward to a return there.

Jim and Sifa with dinner

September 29, 2008
Aloha all from the deck of Intention and the Kingdom of Tonga. Yes all is fabulous here with sunny skies, whales spouting all around, wonderful underwater delights and fine companionship.
Full Moon The full moon shimmers her silver light on the waters surrounding the boat. There is something so lovely to poke my head up out of the cockpit at night, to gaze at the Milky Way, see a rainbow around the moon, hear a fish jump and feel so lucky to have this blessed experience. May this time of the moon cycle be full of joy, beauty, love and excitement for you.
Whale Spirit Sailing Adventures
We spent 2 weeks here on the main island group of Tongatapu nestled by other sailboats here in the jetty by the town. We hoofed it to the government agencies gathering all the paperwork necessary to start the Whale Spirit Sailing Adventures by May 2009. As in any country, getting the official paperwork requires meeting and greeting many folks in government agencies. I give out my sparkly hearts so am becoming known as the heart lady. There are numerous papers to fill out, forms to gather, reports to write, etc. Captain James and I are confident that we will be able with the help of our new Tongan friends to gracefully glide through all the paperwork needed.

CO & Alicia at a Tongan Stonehenge on Tongatapu

Patti’s Tongan Retreat

While here in Nuka’alofa we also gathered various plumbing supplies for Patti to get the water to the kitchen and bathrooms. We are also purchasing things like a chain saw to cut down the old coconut trees and use the trunks for the tables for the restaurant there. Then there are the food items like white tuna fish and canned salmon which can only be gotten here as well as the Chinese greens at the market. Patti and Semi are busy finishing the building of the fantastic and comfortable 5 guest fales at the retreat center. James and I see ourselves as the sailboat connected to the retreat center there. We are all exploring ways to be in community together and interweave our various talents and businesses in cooperation. This is the beginning of the sea/land community dream that I have held for the past 5 years. How exciting! Will keep you posted on the developments.
OK loves, I am enjoying my life and living each day to the fullest breathing in the beauty of all I see around me. Until the next new moon.
Blessings, Alicia Merlady
October 28th, 2008
Aloha
Patti’s Tongan Retreat and Whale Spirit Sailing Adventures Captain James, Patti, Semi and I are visioning ways for us all to work together. We as the sea base will help her build a storage area under the water catchments area to store extra parts from the boat so we can have room for some people. Patti and Semi are the perfect hosts for the folks to stay on land as we sail them to uninhabited islands and of course the fabulous times in the water with the whales. All the items we purchased in Nuku’alofa were immediately put to use. The chainsaw started cutting down the coconut trees that were threatening the structures and their trunks used for supports for the tabletops Patti had purchased in Bali. James and Semi spent a few days designing and implementing the water system to the kitchen and one of the bathrooms. How exciting to have running water. Things we take for granted at our homes. Will keep you updated.

Blessings, Alicia Merlady

Dear friends and family,

I’m sorry I’ve not updated this sooner
Below is a newsletter sent out by my crew Alicia. I’ve modified it and inserted photos.
I hope this brings you current until November when I flew to the US.

Love,
Jim

New Moon August 2008

Alofa friends,
No alofa is not a typo. It is the way to say aloha in Tongan. Alofa everyone. May this find you all having fun in life, following your dreams and being fantastically healthy in body mind and spirit. I am very well and thriving in Tongan waters both in and on top of the sea. Tonga you say? The Tongan kingdom are many islands in mainly 3 groupings, Tongatapu, Ha’apai and Vava’u ,which lie northeast of new Zealand. So here we are in the southern hemisphere. It is winter and across the international dateline. So when I call my folks in Indiana they are one day behind and 6 hours ahead of me. A new king is being coronated in August and I hope to catch some of the festivities. The 37 ft. sloop I am on named Intention is cozy and comfy. My years of living in a tiny trailor in Mt. Shasta has prepared me well for the living space at sea. Everything has a place and many things are hidden from sight behind seats and under them so a little notebook with what and where things are is a very helpful. It is especially useful when I want to find that buffalo jerky I put away so I wouldn’t eat it all in one week.
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Alicia arriving aboard INTENTION

Tongan People
The Tongan folks are large boned and large. Most of the women are 2x sizes and more. They have a beautiful honey colored skin, dark fuzzy hair, gentle eyes and in general are soft spoken.
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Tongan women selling at Market

At first when greeting them, the Tongans may seem standoffish yet when those sparkly hearts I offer appear, their hearts open and the smiles are genuine. As this is a Christian country with English influence, most wear clothes which cover the knees and shoulders. The market in Nuku’alofa the main city in the Tongatapu island where the plane comes into, is full of gorgeous handmade crafts( I bought a whale bone humpback whale necklace and a tapa cloth fan) as well as fruits and vegetables which are in piles for what you get for your money. Sunday is a holiday in which most go to church and then visit and eat with their families in the afternoon. ALL stores and the markets are closed on Sunday. Something I do remember in small towns across America. It is a refreshing custom.
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Alicia with the maker of her new tapa fan

Churches and Cemeteries
There are many sects of Christianity here. In the churches on Sunday the amazing musical heritage comes alive.
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Tongan Church inside

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CO and his children & grandchildren after church

Capt. Jim, CO & his family, and I attended a Catholic service and I was in rapture over the 3 and 4 part singing acapella harmonies that filled the church with glorious tones. Most of the music is in western type harmonic scales so it was easy for me to sing along. Though I had to Aah as the entire service was in Tongan. Sunday dress consisted of long dresses for women and long pants or sarongs for men with an overlay of a woven straw mat that is tied at the waist with coconut cording. This is the traditional sign of respect and can be seen outside of church as well at weddings, funerals and on folks who are wearing the black clothes for the one year mourning period for family members.
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Colorful Tongan Cemetery
Cemeteries contain the remains of folks in concrete blocked rectangles on which is piled high sand or black pebbles. On top are numerous artificial flowers in elaborate displays. The families with more wealth make a brightly colorful patterned handmade quilt that hangs at the head of the grave on a wooden frame. Many folks go into debt to honor the dead family member.
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Pig visiting cemetery

Underwater Delights
When we left the safety of the Queen Salote jetty and ventured out to the islands we anchored for 2 days near Big Mama’s resort. There I snorkeled for the first time and was delighted to see the variety of coral and fish, some familiar with a twist, some not so known to me. There were white staghorn coral with lavender tips, salmon, moss green blue sandy colored corals. Heaps of fluorescent blue and green small reef fish as well as black and gold striped fish, black and white fish, orange with lavender noses. The best were the clown fish like Nemo hiding in the sea anemones poking their orange and white striped bodies out to peer at me. One clown fish came up to my mask over and over again as if to say alofa to the islands. As it is winter here, I am so glad that I brought my wet suit with me so I could stay in the water for about an hour.
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Fantastic Tongan Experience
Coming out of the water on a beach feeling like I looked like an alien with my black hooded head gear, blue and white wet suit, black snorkel, lavender and green mask holding my powder blue fins,
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I met a Tongan woman watching her little 4 year old girl running and laughing on the beach. She was sitting by a coconut husk fire covered with a towel to keep off the flies and mosquitoes. I was glad to have the warmth of a fire as my hands were turning blue. We chatted as she spoke English and I have learned only a few Tongan words. As we sat her husband came from further down the beach where he had a bigger coconut husk fire going under some trees with other relatives. In his hands were Tora Tora , the large red shelled crabs that he had caught and roasted in the fire along with pieces of breadfruit which he had gotten from the trees around the beach. They offered me a heart shaped leaf that he pulled off the tree with some of the delicacies of the crab.and the white meat of the breadfruit. He twisted the crab apart to reveal a yellow sticky goo paste like substance inside which he dipped the breadfruit in and offered to me. I tried it and it was good. As in some eating adventures best not to know what it is beforehand. Later I found out from Jim that was the brains of the crab.Maybe I’ll get smarter in the water now?
This to me was such a kind, generous offer of Tongan hospitality. After the swim and the feast I felt like I had arrived in the Tongan islands. Returning to the boat later in the day I waved to the 8 family members in a small boat poling along the shore to the dock. This is a common sight in Tonga as many folks travel in little boats which are loaded down to the water line.

Patti’s Retreat Center
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View of Patti’s retreat from Intention
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Close-up of Octagon and Kitchen behind

Now we are anchored and helping my friend Patti in the middle group of islands, the Ha’apai group, build her retreat center. On the physical and on the etheric, she is an amazing being with a dream that she is manifesting on this beautiful tropical island.
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Patti

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Patti’s daughter, Laura, & 4 grand kids

Her family of 2 daughters, 4 grandkids, former husband and his wife along with some New Zealand cruisers and Tongan workers are putting up the 11 structures she ordered and got shipped form Bali along with furniture, quilts of whales and dolphins and various things needed to start this center.

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Interior of octagon & other eating fale in background

Patti is an amazing masseuse and visionary. I tend to play with the kids while others put up the outhouse. The kids are all ecstatic at sunset when we blow the conch to send that pulse of love around the world.
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Alicia blowing the conch

The kids and I built the 64th flying heart in the web of flying hearts that I have made in the places I have been. I’m also getting an education in Tongan cooking. How to make coconut milk, how to husk the coconut, how to cook in the emu(fire pit), and how to use the young coconut leaves to steam the contents in water.

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Simi showing us how to make coconut milk

Humpback Whales
The humpback whales from the southern pole come into these waters to birth and mate.
As we sailed back from Pangai, the nearest town in the Ha’apai group, after provisioning with fresh tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, onions, cucumbers at the very tiny local market, we were blessed to have a group of humpback whales lead us back through the reefs to Patti’s retreat. They were breaching, tail slapping, waving their large pectoral fins at us. We all felt the beauty and magnificence of these giants of the sea. I am hoping that while I am here there will be an opportunity to once again view them from under the water as well as sighting them while sailing.
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Leaving Patti’s and sailing upwind 15 miles and 2 islands north to Hanno Island to anchor next to John and Michele on COANDALE at Greg’s fishing resort. He showed us around where he’s been clearing the land, building sleeping and kitchen facilities, setting up water catchment, and planting a huge plentiful garden for over a year. His place is more basic and does not have the beauty and of Patti’s Bali fales as it is set up for a bunch of NZ guys to just sleep, eat, and drink when not fishing. He gave us a large stalk of bananas and generously allowed us to fill our water tanks with great tasting rain water from his full tanks.
The sailing to Vav’au and back to Hap’ai has been fabulous with easy winds and relatively smooth seas. Sailed to Vav’au one night arriving at daybreak for an easy passage through the Islands to the main city of Nieafu. We got Alica’s Visa extended and did shopping for fresh fruits and veggies, and in the evening went to a Tongan concert/dance at the Paradise Hotel with Patti, Sammy, Alicia, John, and Michele. In the morning we all then sailed to Hunga Island and stayed over night at the very protected lagoon to see and hike some other property of Patti’s. Leaving there at first light we later followed a pod of 7 Humpback Whales for an hour and crossed path’s with 7 dolphins as well seeing 5 rainbows. At sunset we anchored again just off Greg’s property at the northern most of the Hap’ai Islands, Hanno. The next morning was a 15 mile downwind sail to Pangi and the king’s coronation ceremony of feasting and Tongan dancing. He passed a few feet from from us as he walked to his Thrown on the Rugby Field. He is 60 and has decided to make Tonga a democracy in 2010. Alicia spent all afternoon watching the extraordinary variety of the dancing from each of the many different islands in the the Hap’ai until it ended at 5PM. I did not get close to or get to see much of the dancing as I was not dressed appropriately with long pants and collared shirt. We sailed back to and anchored just off Patti’s beach watching a beautiful pink sunset.

Here is a little about what I have been busy doing for the last few weeks.
You would have loved the weather for the night sail under jib, staysail, and a full mainsail up to my friend Patti’s very small beginnings of a resort in Hap’ai as it was light airs and small soft waves and lots of shimmering moon light on the water. By the next noon INTENTION was sailing west through the narrow pass downwind wing & wing with just jib & mainsail making the turn around the southern point of the island of Uoleva and anchoring in sand bottom in the protection of the reef in front of Patti’s land. Her daughters, Laura & Karen; X-husband, Roy, & new wife, Pat; and all 4 grandchildren; Alex(10), Carly(8) Cody(5), Sofia(4), are here having a good time and helping her build. After being here almost a month they return in a week. Patti’s Friend, Alicia, is making a big hit singing & playing her banjo, Sufi dancing last night,and especially her special conch blowing ceremonies which she has done with everyone at sunset. Sending love around the planet.
Things have happened fast in only 3 weeks with the help of a 6 local Tongans and friends from another boat, COANDALE, all 13 of the buildings she had prefabricated in Bali are put together like jigsaw puzzles and set in their concrete foundations. The 3 fales/sleeping places on this side of the island are quite separated and private and are being used by each of Patti’s daughter’s families, and Roy & Pat, each having one. The largest octagonal building with the adjoining small rectangular building for kitchen/food preparation in the back is the meeting/eating place. There’s a good size Tongan hut for getting a great massage. In the next few days we will assembling the parts for what will be for now her single toilet and shower until the others get added to each fale. There are 3 other larger family fales with sleeping lofts for the children on the more private western beach/lagoon. A garden will be planted to supply fresh fruit & vegies for the kitchen. Eventually the use of composing toilets and solar power will make Patti’s place ecological and power self-sufficient.
For those of you who think that cruising is just one big vacation I’ll tell you what happened Yesterday. It was a very busy day. Got up early to ready INTENTION for the trip. Dingyed into shore at 7:30 AM to get people off beach, Patti, Karen, Alex, Sophia and Sammy, Patti’s Tongan friend then to COANDALE for John & Michele. We raised anchor and with the dingy in tow began motoring north the 5 miles to the biggest city in Ha’pai, Pangi. Half way there INTENTION’s engine exhaust developed a leak but with John at the helm we just continued on past the reefs and anchored beautifully in the secure little harbor. After dingying everyone ashore we began our exploration of all of the high points of the town. After cold drinks at the Chinese store we split up into groups in search of our needed items. Then on to the fresh foods market, Hardware store, book store & many other general stores, Lunch was fishbergers or hamburgers at the only restaurant, the Mariner’s Cafe. Alicia gave out sparkly bright colored little hearts to everyone. Asking them ‘What color heart do you want?’ everywhere she went. Around 2 PM we dingyed people & many boxes of supplies including Sammy’s purchase of a young pig for a BBQ celebration of yesterday getting a toilet working. It was ‘The First Big Flush Celebration.’
After raising the anchor the exhaust completely broke. We quickly motored clear of the harbor entrance, stopped engine, rolled out jib to sail back to Patti’s. John sailed while Michele and I with exhaust cement, hose clamps, and an old large tuna can opened at both ends and split length wise to wrap around the broken exhaust pipe repaired the problem exhaust pipe. For those of you who have forgotten the definition of cruising let me remind you. “Fixing your boat in exotic places.” Sammy took the wheel for a while. It was his first time sailing and he was very excited having the opportunity steering his first sailboat. Mean while, there was much yelling and jumping up and down on the foredeck by the other crew, as they call us in Tonga, the ‘Palangis’, watching a pod of 4 or 5 Humpback Whales breaching, spouting, and jumping about a half mile ahead which was ‘ho hum’ to Sammy who sees them often. John did a great job of getting us safely anchored under sail in front of Patti’s and next to COANDALE. We off-loaded people and boxes of supplies.
Alicia was great. Volunteering to help me clean up INTENTION and after a few minutes rest break and watching the awesome pink clouds of a beginning sunset we began cleaning the wet floor mixed with carbon soot, tools, and general disarray that comes with a days sailing especial with large a number of people aboard. Will do more tomorrow as it is almost totally dark. Seeing Sammy’s fire on the each means it’s time to go ashore for a BBQ celebration dinner. The Big Flush Celebration started with Karen’s new creation, a concocted Tongan fruit Rum Escape, and watching Sammy slowly rotating the pig on a spit over the fire. Alicia did her Conch blowing ceremony. Sending her pulse of love around our beautiful blue planet, spaceship Earth. With our pork or chicken there was Karen’s Garlic bread and creamed potatoes & green beans and Pat’s cucumber salad with cookies for desert. Some retired to bed and some stayed up sitting and talking by the fire on the beach until midnight. Someone getting up occasionally to put more wood on the fire and at other times having that content feeling and just enjoying watching the fire. Then through the surf, a dingy ride back to INTENTION and some sleep.
Love, Jim

22 50 South 175 58 West !42 NM made good 120 NM to TONGA
Best days run so far today. Still very windy conditions. looking forward to landfall.
Day 10 found us 20 miles directly up wind motor sailing past the point entrance and into the bay anchoring just after dark. Dragged anchor & reanchored then caught on a coral head for the night. Untangled from the coral head in the morning and motored tothe harbor where we Mediterranean moor to the jetty.