King’s Coronation
The adventure continues. From here we set sail for the Vava’u group and hopefully in time to take in some coronation ceremonies. There are mixed feelings among the people for the king. He and his family have made some rather poor choices around money which actually belonged to the people so there was rampant burning in Tongatapu in 06. However, I have seen many mothers making intricate decorations for their children to wear in honor of the king’s visit as well as hearing bands practicing and school children singing in anticipation of his visit. The king will visit each of the three groupings in August.

Flower decorations

Tongan Naval marching band

August 30, 2008
Aloha from the kingdom of Tonga,

Kings Coronation Celebration

Arches built in Hap’ai for the King’s Coronation

Yes, the Kingdom of Tonga is one of the few monarchies left in the world. What an amazing adventure to witness some of the celebration ceremonies in crowning the new king who is around 60 years old. We sailed to Ha’apai islands to be part of the 3 day activities here. The first day featured a parade in western style through the main street in town. Arches were built over it with pictures of the king and well wishing signs surrounded by coconut palm fronds and leis of flowers as well as colorful and shiny plastic and tinsel decorations. That day the king was given gifts of pigs, horses, and goats. The next day, the King wearing native dress was honored in the local rugby field across from the palace.

Tents and King’s Throne

Here colorful tents in the national colors of red and white were set up. The King and the immediate royal family walked onto the field from the palace across the street to a main tent that was higher than the other tents.

Food for the King & the Nobles

Tongans came by boat from all of the surrounding islands to dance and sing traditional songs for the king. Some of the 4 part songs were composed for the occasion. The men danced on one side of a line which was very animated and on many levels, even jumping and rolling on the ground. The women were on the other side dancing more graceful sedate movements with a lot of head and hand movements. Some of the dancers gleamed in the sunlight from the coconut oil that was glistening on their bodies. Each village had different colors of the traditional garb of white blouse, long skirt with an overlay of a straw woven mat tied around the waist with a leaf or woven colored leis around their necks and head pieces of feathers, leaves or straw.

Dancers

After each village performance gifts of taditional handmade items, tapa cloths, necklaces, and carvings were given to the King. The marching military brass band also performed in their striking English style uniforms playing fantastically well arranged western marches and popular songs. After the 4 hour entertainment, there was a huge feast of local cuisine as suckling whole piglets, cassava, sweet potato and cans of soda set on low tables on straw mats for all to eat their fill. The third day was another parade to the airport where the king flew off to another celebration.

Tongan Women’s Coronation Formal ware

Tongan Men’s Formal ware

Jim sitting with the Commoners waiting for the King

King passes by – Jim’s hair below

King’s Palace in Ha’pai

Deserted islands

We stocked up on the local market foods of canned peanuts, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, peppers, sweet potatoes and headed to find lush, lovely stunning deserted island jewels where we could romp in the warm, clear waters in our birthday suits. Captain Jim and I sharpened his machete and we managed to gather a few low hanging coconuts and hack our way to coconut water refreshment. Yummy.It seems the coconut water is very high in electrolytes as well as very delicious white meat for snacking. It felt as though we were in the center of a travel poster of island life. The underwater scenery was varied and gorgeous, from cliff drop-offs to sandy layered blue waters with many types of coral in lavenders, pinks, white, greens and blues as well as fish of all sizes shapes and colors. Truly I am so blessed to experience this Tongan life.

Dingy on deserted island beach with Intention anchored off

Musical Tongan Event

In the Vavau island group, we arrived too soon to experience the coronation ceremonies. Actually the king was to arrive but postponed the trip for 2 weeks. Events and planned activities took place anyway. One such event was a concert by Angela Afeaki. She is a New Zealander who is from a musical family in Tonga. She came back for the festivities to perform. I learned of the event by meeting her and her mother setting up places in town to sell her new CD, Tongan Rendezvous. So I gathered a few cruisers and we showed up at 7:30 thinking we were late. As island time has it, the MC kept waiting for the seats to fill up so the show actually began 2 hours later. In the meantime, we danced and listened to very loud DJ popular western music. We westerners encouraged the kids to get up and dance with us. Angela was a talented singer and to our delight sang many Tongan songs. Angela and I exchanged CD’s and email addresses wishing that we had had some time to sing together.

Orion, the pig farmer

I have been here almost 2 months now and am starting to have a Tongan family. As I am becoming friends with some of the folks, I am finding that everyone is someone’s cousin.
Jim and I took Sifa from the Haipai group with us to Tongatapu, the southern island chain, for a week’s sail and stopped at some wonderful islands on the way. Sifa taught us how to open coconuts, related some of the myths of the islands, taught us more Tongan language, and showed us how to gather some of the foods of the islands such as beans growing in the wild. We sailed to a few fabulous islands.

Kelafelisa Island

One was Kelafelisa, a small picturesque island surrounded by reefs, clear beautiful azure waters, fabulous snorkeling scenery and rugged cliffs. As we explored the island we met his cousin, Orion, related through his father’s side who is living on the island by himself running a pig farm there. This means he cuts open coconuts for the wild pigs and his dogs to eat. Once a month or so depending on the seas, his son comes to bring supplies such as rice and crackers and take some of the pigs to another island to sell. Orion is an old-timer living a simple life in a Tongan fale, put together with coconut trees, corrugated tin siding and palm fronds. His furniture is made from sapling trees and coconut fronds. He cooks on an outdoor fire with a few beat up pans. In the middle of the small island are some papaya trees, a breadfruit tree and of course the coconut. He has a smile on his face and is so happy to meet his cousin Sifa for the first time. We invited Orion to dinner on the boat with us to share in a feast of rice, salad leftovers, umu (earth oven Tongan traditional cookery) goodies of tapioca (a white yam like starch) yams and breadfruit from another island adventure we had. Sifa caught some fish and plucked some large clams from the coral which he made into a raw fish salad with coconut milk, tingly red hot chili peppers, onions and tomatoes. Another boat sailed in so we invited them also. Turns out they had a larger table onboard so we all went over there for a feasting evening and lots of laughter, music and match puzzle tricks. Orion through Sifa thanked us all for a lovely evening saying we were the first yachts to invite him aboard. He had tears in his eyes as he expressed his gratitude to us. We left him with some extra supplies and a promise to return in a week or so with more goodies for him from the big town. We all were very moved by his simple life and generous heart. We are looking forward to a return there.

Jim and Sifa with dinner

September 29, 2008
Aloha all from the deck of Intention and the Kingdom of Tonga. Yes all is fabulous here with sunny skies, whales spouting all around, wonderful underwater delights and fine companionship.
Full Moon The full moon shimmers her silver light on the waters surrounding the boat. There is something so lovely to poke my head up out of the cockpit at night, to gaze at the Milky Way, see a rainbow around the moon, hear a fish jump and feel so lucky to have this blessed experience. May this time of the moon cycle be full of joy, beauty, love and excitement for you.
Whale Spirit Sailing Adventures
We spent 2 weeks here on the main island group of Tongatapu nestled by other sailboats here in the jetty by the town. We hoofed it to the government agencies gathering all the paperwork necessary to start the Whale Spirit Sailing Adventures by May 2009. As in any country, getting the official paperwork requires meeting and greeting many folks in government agencies. I give out my sparkly hearts so am becoming known as the heart lady. There are numerous papers to fill out, forms to gather, reports to write, etc. Captain James and I are confident that we will be able with the help of our new Tongan friends to gracefully glide through all the paperwork needed.

CO & Alicia at a Tongan Stonehenge on Tongatapu

Patti’s Tongan Retreat

While here in Nuka’alofa we also gathered various plumbing supplies for Patti to get the water to the kitchen and bathrooms. We are also purchasing things like a chain saw to cut down the old coconut trees and use the trunks for the tables for the restaurant there. Then there are the food items like white tuna fish and canned salmon which can only be gotten here as well as the Chinese greens at the market. Patti and Semi are busy finishing the building of the fantastic and comfortable 5 guest fales at the retreat center. James and I see ourselves as the sailboat connected to the retreat center there. We are all exploring ways to be in community together and interweave our various talents and businesses in cooperation. This is the beginning of the sea/land community dream that I have held for the past 5 years. How exciting! Will keep you posted on the developments.
OK loves, I am enjoying my life and living each day to the fullest breathing in the beauty of all I see around me. Until the next new moon.
Blessings, Alicia Merlady
October 28th, 2008
Aloha
Patti’s Tongan Retreat and Whale Spirit Sailing Adventures Captain James, Patti, Semi and I are visioning ways for us all to work together. We as the sea base will help her build a storage area under the water catchments area to store extra parts from the boat so we can have room for some people. Patti and Semi are the perfect hosts for the folks to stay on land as we sail them to uninhabited islands and of course the fabulous times in the water with the whales. All the items we purchased in Nuku’alofa were immediately put to use. The chainsaw started cutting down the coconut trees that were threatening the structures and their trunks used for supports for the tabletops Patti had purchased in Bali. James and Semi spent a few days designing and implementing the water system to the kitchen and one of the bathrooms. How exciting to have running water. Things we take for granted at our homes. Will keep you updated.

Blessings, Alicia Merlady