Wow three months have passed so quickly. Although fun and leisurely it feels as though they were packed with activity. Now it’s finally time to catch up on the journal.

Jim and I (Alice) took the overnight ferry from Lakota to Savusavu. I was pleased to find that it was safe to leave our belongings on our seats and wander about. I was also pleased to find plenty of empty berths, one in particular calling out to be occupied. So we were able to get a good night’s sleep. We arrived fed and refreshed at 8AM in the morning. I was greeted on INTENTION with beautiful home cut multi-colored tropical flowers from Bogi, Jim’s Fijian friend.

It is lovely here, gently swaying palm trees, all the green leaves interspersed with colorful pinks reds and yellows, and warm calm blue-green water. I have been most amazed by the schools of flying fish that glide like silver birds in a low arc over the water. Most nights are clear and the stars are prolific. There are trees along the bank that lean out over the water. They invite the children to climb out among their ferny leaves and jump splashing into the water. The people are friendly. We are greeted with “Bula” (hello) as we walked down the street.

Jim introduced me to Jeff and Christie, a cruising couple he has known since 1992. They both play ukuleles and have teaching material to share with me. I guess bringing a ukulele that I don’t know how to play was the right move.

VILLAGE TRIP

View from Village

Jim, Alice, Ratu with grand child

Less than a week here and we have been invited by Bogi to his village, Boca Village. There will be a funeral. We thought it was an odd time to go but Bogi assured us it was an ideal time to visit. There will be a feast and a ceremony.

We loaded a truck taxi with bags of sugar and flour as well as taro, cassava and of course kava. Six of us, Bogi his wife and three children, his brother, Jim and I, piled in for the hour and a half ride to the village. We were warmly welcomed and provided a room in the Ratu’s (chief of the village) home. Bogi is the second son of the Ratu. We were fed cassava, taro and taro leaves.

Cassava is a starchy root crop, it grows easily and abundantly. Bogi gave us a tour of the gardens. We were shown how the cassava is pulled from the ground and tubers cut off. Then the stem is cut into 15 inch pieces and shoved back into the ground to grow again.

Bogi opening young coconut

Jim drinking his fill

There is an abundance of coconut. The young coconut water is tasty, cool and refreshing. Also it is reported by the AMA that it reduces blood pressure. I was shown how to make the coconut milk from the mature coconuts. The mature meat is scraped into a large bowl and water added, just enough to cover the grated coconut. The coconut is squeezed several times through the water. The white milky liquid is poured off to be used in the cooking. I was glad to learn that Jim has a coconut scraper on INTENTION.

Village Children

A motley crew of butchers for the funeral feast

Dressed for the Funeral

I was given a tour of the village by Bogi’s five-year-old, cute, talkative daughter. She attempted to teach me some Fijian words. That evening the men sat around drinking kava. Kava is a liquid that acts as a mild sedative. It is made from a woody root. The root is pounded in a tall narrow bowl by the men to get a powder. The powder is then mixed with water. The taste is less than pleasant. If you enjoy drinking brown dirty dishwater you will love kava.

Kava ceremony with Ratu

Jim hanging out with the guys

The following day was the funeral. Jim was given a pink sulu to wear. The sulu is a large piece of colorful cloth about 2 yards wide that is wrapped around the waist as a traditional dress. I was given a skirt and blouse.

Beautiful mats awaiting casket

The funeral was in a neighboring village, a short walk down a dirt road. The men were gathered outside under a canopy sitting on woven mats, drinking kava. Jim joined them. I joined the women inside the house. They were sitting on the floor, around the walls of a large living room, singing hymns. The casket arrived by truck and was placed on the mats outside. Some of the women wailed and some of the men spoke praise or prayers. Then the casket was brought into the house and the sobbing became more intense. Afterwards most everyone headed to an open grassy area where large amounts of food had been prepared. There was a procession with the casket to the church. After the church service everyone hiked up a hill to the beautiful burial site. Most of the two villages participated. It was a slow day, with time to rest and walk around. The funeral took from morning until late afternoon. Jim and I spent one more night at the Ratu’s home and left on the bus to Savusavu the following morning.

Burial site overlooking Boca Bay & Village