Monday June 27th

Aloha all-

We anchored yesterday evening just inside the south end of the lagoon
(still on Fakarava Island). The village here is Tetamanu. We anchored a
few hundred yards from a huge yacht from Australia. The people came over
to say ‘hello’ & Jim asked them if we could join them in the AM for a
snorkeling tour, since our dinghy motor isn’t running. They generously
obliged & we had a great time; the reef here is teeming with life! We
started out in front of the ‘pension’ (hotel/bungalows) & let the
current carry us along to near the mouth of the lagoon. The water is
ultra clear & as soon as you get in, you’re surrounded by fish of every
size, shape & color, including many reef sharks. The sharks mostly
stayed around 20-30-foot depths, but occasionally would become curious &
approach us. I was surprised to see a stray one meander into very
shallow water a few times, as well. John tried to offer himself up to a
huge moray eel (he didn’t see it), as Judy, one the Australian ladies &
I looked on in horror. He dove RIGHT in front of the big guy, passing
within a foot or so. I tried to get his attention, but couldn’t until he
surfaced. The coral was beautiful also, with a few colored ones here &
there. It was like living a Jacques Cousteau documentary! Absolutely
AMAZING. We plan on pulling up anchor around 12N today, to head for
Papeete. I will (sadly) be leaving the adventure team July 1st, to fly
home to Kauai, Hawaii.

Much love to you all,
Darla

HI to all

Early this morning we had an extraordinary snorkel at the south pass of
Fakarava. To mention just a few there were schools of needle fish,
yellow and black striped Sargent Majors, Multi-colored blue and green
Parrot Fish, and of course white tipped and black tipped sharks. WE were
also all carefully swimming around lots different kinds and colors of
coral. This truly topped off our stay at an extraordinary and special
island atoll of Fakarava. And we say “Thank you” as we sail about 250
miles to Papette next.

Love Jim

June 26th – Sailing through life

Hi everyone
I hope your days have been joyous peaceful and extraordinarily beautiful
as that is the way it is here. We crew and INTENTION are sailing
directly downwind under an asymmetrical spinnaker on the starboard and a
poled out jib on the port doing about 4.5 knots through calm blue
seemingly endless sea. The day and the moment has an timelessness about
it as one hour just blends to next and on and on. A little food, water,
and place to extend my body to sleep, it does come down to very simple
needs to have a very rich life. I feel very wealthily in body and
spirit.
Thank you all for being with me on this trip through life.
Love
Jim

Sunday – June 26th – more Fakarava

It’s early morning. I’m sitting in the cockpit typing this as the sun is
slowly rising over palm trees and a quaint Catholic Church off the port
bow. The crew is fast asleep below after a late night dinner and revelry
at at a villager’s house, Pourini, last night. She had lived in the US
for 20 years so communication was much easier than using my broken
French. She was a very interesting lady and we have many lively
conversations. Her cousin Christopher partied with us and rounded out
the number of our group to five. A great time was had by all. I rowed us
crew back to the boat as the outboard motor is not working.

We are departing this morning from this anchorage for the south pass of
the atoll about 30 miles distant. We are looking forward to the
fantastic snorkling and diving there. Crews up and it’s time to up
anchor.

Love
Jim

Hi everyone-

Just a quick note to say sorry for not writing as often as I would like,
but it’s just not so easy when we’re anchored. When we’re on the boat
we’re either sleeping, working, or getting ready to go ashore, it seems.
This place is absolutely charming, as are the people who live here. They
are SO friendly & generous. Some young men gave me a big, beautiful fish
as I was walking down the street yesterday evening. I was looking for
Jim, as we had parted ways earlier. He was not at the dinghy & the fish
was too heavy to carry around, so I put it in the fork of a large tree,
about 8 feet off the ground & continued on to look for Jim. I went to my
new lady friend Pourini’s house & offered her some of the fish & she
invited us all to come for dinner & bring the fish. When Jim & I
returned to the tree, the fish was gone! (BUMMER, as it was such a nice
one, all cleaned & everything). I was thinking ‘dogs’ when I hid it
there, but didn’t really think cats would be able to knock it
down…evidently they did. Anyway, we had a feast of other things from
the boat, plus goodies that Pourini prepared. It was a fun evening. Now,
I can haaaardly wait to finally go snorkeling!!

Much love,
Darla

Thursday June 23rd – Good morning from the atoll of Fakarava

Good morning to all
I awoke this morning after having slept under a sky of sparkling stars
out in the cockpit. Now the water in this lagoon is so flat and calm
that when looking off to the horizon the blue of the sky and the sea
blend into one.
Yesterday we explored the village, the two stores, the post office, the
school, the municipal buildings, and the roads, some of concrete and
some of the natural coral of the atoll. The people are all so friendly
and interested in talking to us in our broken French and English.
Purchased a few necessities at each of the two stores. Like crackers,
baguettes, and a special treat necessary for John, an ice cream costing
over $2.50 each. Also purchased was a 99 cent bag (in the US) of
Doritios for over $6.50.
We celebrated last night by getting all cleaned up and dressed up to
motor out in the dingy for a great dinner at a nice local restaurant.
Boy did we look spiffy after days of grubby sailing. We all had baked
Mahi Mahi. Mine was rolled in coconut with a lemon butter garlic dipping
sauce. A delicious meal including rice and a green salad. The dingy
motor would not start so Darla demonstrated her rowing skills by rowing
us two guys the quarter mile back to Intention.
Love from all of us
Jim

Tuesday, June 21st

Kaoha, all-

Okay, so a few days have lapsed. I admit that I just finished the ‘June
16th’ entry today. It’s been perking in my brain all of this time &
finally emerged. There’s something about being ‘out at sea’ that
inspires the writing. (I think it’s called ‘captivity’ We left the
Marquesas for the Tuomotus mid-day on the 17th & arrived at Katiu at
daybreak this AM. The first part of this leg of our journey was rough,
then it calmed considerably for several hours, then became REALLY rough.
There have been some squalls in the area, beginning a few hours before
reaching Katiu. Unfortunately, we could not land on Katiu, as the
current was too strong. After navigating through a rough, narrow channel
of huge, standing waves, we simply could not move forward because of the
strong current. We promptly turned around & headed back out to sea. We
are going to try Fakarava next & should be able to make that island with
no problem, according to our reference book. Will try to keep you more
closely informed of our adventures from now on.

Love you all!
Darla

Hello to all

We missed Katiu due a more than 6 knot current against us through the
pass after we got through the jumble of six foot standing waves tossing
the boat around. When your sailing the Gods of the Sea will always
remind you who’s really in charge. Oh well, that’s what happens when you
get your hopes on getting somewhere in particular. We’re off on our next
adventure.

Love
Jim

Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2005 10:29 PM

Intention in the Marquesas
By Paul Elliott

On June 2, I flew from San Francisco, through Los Angeles, to Papeete, Tahiti. The next morning, I took a small inter-island flight to the Island of Hiva-Oa, in the southern Marquesas. Intention and crew sailed into Tahauku Bay, near the town of Atuona, before first light on Sunday, June 5th. Later that morning, I greeted Jim, Darla, and John with fresh bread, Pamplemous (sweet grapefruit) and a Champagne toast to their voyage.

Intention at anchor in Hiva-Oa, looking good after the passage from San Francisco

Celebrating a successful voyage

We spent a couple of days on Hiva-Oa, needing to clear in with the local Gendarme, and to re-provision with some fresh fruits and vegetables. We also did some sight-seeing, and the weary crew was able to freshen-up at the local hotel.

On Wednesday morning, we left for the near-by island of Tahuata. We arrived in the afternoon at a small, secluded beach. The gentle waves and soft sand were calling to us, so we swam ashore and explored the 300-yard width of the deserted beach.

John considering the swim in to our private beach on Tahuata

We spent the night anchored, and left the next morning for Fatu-Hiva. A school (pod?) of dolphins escorted us as we left Tahuata, leaping and frolicking while we watched.

Watching the dolphins off of Tahuata

An evening arrival in Fatu-Hiva had Jim swimming out the stern anchor, with us guiding him by flashlight. The next morning, we were rewarded by the incredible primitive vision of the majestic and powerful stone spires guarding the protected anchorage of Hanavave Bay. We went ashore, met some of the locals, and bargained for fresh food (a large fish, in trade for a small bag of trail-mix, fresh fruit: practically given away). We also purchased and traded for some wooden carvings and inked tapa-cloth while we were on the island.

Hanavave Bay (Bay of Virgins), Fatu-Hiva

Majestic Fatu-Hiva

We were anchored next to a couple of very friendly Norwegian policemen, so we all decided to hike from the bay to a waterfall (I estimate it at about 275 feet). The two-hour hike (each way) was steep and muddy, but the deep pool at the base of the falls made it all worthwhile!

Darla at the end of the rainbow

Jim, John, Darla, and Paul at the falls

Leaving Fatu-Hiva

We left Fatu-Hiva, and sailing through the moonless night we were escorted for several hours by a school of dolphins, covered with fiery phosphorescence and leaving trails of sparkling light in their wake. We arrived Sunday afternoon at Ua-Pou. This is another beautiful island, where we anchored in the dramatic harbor of Hakahau Bay. There had just been a large Confirmation ceremony at the Catholic Church, and we were invited to sample the food at one of the many celebration parties that evening.

Jim, Darla, and our host on Ua-Pou

As this island is in the Northern Marquesas, we had to check-in with the Gendarme on Monday. We were able to listen to the children’s choir practicing in the afternoon – a moving experience. We left Monday evening for an overnight sail to Nuku-Hiva. We had brisk breezes, and we sailed all night with jib and staysail, averaging about six knots. We arrived in Daniel’s Bay (Taioa Bay) in the dark, but anchored safely and securely.

Nuku-Hiva — Jim and Daniel meet again after 15 years

Daniel’s Bay is named after Daniel, who has been greeting visiting yachts for many years. He now has seven logbooks with entries from many hundreds of boats. We were able to find Jim’s entry of fifteen years ago, and we all signed a new page in Daniel’s latest book. We all hiked to a very high waterfall, and enjoyed it’s powerful and cooling waters. The pool at the base of the falls was inhabited by thousands of small crayfish. They were curious and tickled a little, but none of us lost any blood.

Hiking through the jungle, to the falls

The waterfall

We spent two nights in Daniel’s Bay, and each morning watched schools of Manta Rays feed near the boat. Some of these creatures had at least seven-foot wingspans, and were a joy to watch as they performed an underwater ballet for us.

Taiohae Bay, Nuku-Hiva

We left on Thursday morning, and quickly anchored in Taiohae Bay, just a few miles east of Daniel’s Bay. I went ashore and made arrangements for transportation to the airport for my flight the next day, then we explored the beautiful town of Taiohae and had dinner at a small restaurant. On the way back to Intention, we passed a group of young men and women practicing dances, singing, and chants. The powerful rhythms and motions and chants of the men, and the lyrical singing and subtle dance of the girls captivated us for hours. Friday morning, Jim and I rowed ashore, where I was taken by four-wheel jeep over the mountainous ridges and muddy roads to the small airport on the other side of the island. My plane took me back to Tahiti, where I spent the night in air-conditioned comfort and returned home, via Los Angeles, this afternoon (Saturday, June 18).

Thank you Jim, Darla, John, and Intention, for an amazing experience!

Sincerely,
Paul Elliott

June 17th – Tuamotus Bound

Hello to all friends and family

We departed Daniels Bay after spending the morning getting good water
there. We are currently on our 500 mile sail heading toward the island
of Katiu in the Tuamotus. This is an Island I visited 15 years ago with
many fond memories and extraordinary experiences. One of which I hope
not to repeat which was cutting off the tip of my left thumb with a
machete while helping to harvest copra. But that’ another story to tell
another day.

Just had dolphins swimming off the bow for a few minuets no jumps but
beautiful to watch.

Love Jim

Thursday, June 16th

Hello to our beautiful family-

Thursday, June 16th
Sorry about the communication drought (on my part–Jim’s been
beautifully taking up the slack). Once we hit land, we just haven’t had
nearly the time to write as before. SO many adventures, so little time.
Big, bad bummer that our angel Paul Elliott left us today. We all **SO**
enjoyed and appreciated his first-class reception & presence here. Safe
travels & a MILLION thanks to you, Paul, for everything.

Some of the things we’ve experienced here are SOOOO difficult to put
into words. This place is FULL of magic & majesty. Like the night we
were sailing from Fatu-Hiva to Ua-Pou. I suddenly awoke at 2AM & John
was on night-watch (the first since we arrived in the Marquesas). John
heard me get up & came down to tell me to come up to see the dolphins. I
followed him to the bow & looked into the water to experience one of the
most mind-blowing things I’ve ever seen. (Paul & Jim were right behind
us). Dolphins were ‘riding the bow’ as they are often known to do…only
THIS was an absolutely spectacular sight! It was very dark, so we were
being treated to ‘water fireworks’ in the shape of dolphins! Many
star-studded dolphins darted back & forth in front of the boat, swimming
every which way. We could see them 30-40 feet from the boat, then they’d
arrive right under our feet with lightening speed. Our little
phosphorescent plankton friends were participating in inter-species play
with the dolphins to create the magical light show of a lifetime. Aqua
Aurora Borealis, dolphin-style, SINGING INCLUDED.

Another awe-inspiring sight was the hike up to the amazing (purported to
be the world’s 3rd highest) waterfall on Nuku-Hiva. We anchored in
Daniel’s Bay and hiked the 2-hour (each way) trail. The trail head
starts behind the famous Daniel & his sweet wife Antoinette’s house. Of
course we had to take a refreshing swim in the pool at the base of the
falls! The trail to the falls is amazing, winding through old,
OLD-feeling jungle growth & crossing the ‘creek’ several times. We saw
petroglyph stone formations all along the way; reminders of the island’s
ancient cannibalistic inhabitants. The place abounds with lush exotic
tropical foliage (including old, gigantic trees decorated with 4 to
5-inch brightly-colored flowers which would fall around us as we
walked). There were plants with HUGE leaves, mystical fern groves &
mosses & lichens sporting impossible natural colors of green. This part
of the island definitely has a ‘Jurassic Park meets Raiders of the Lost
Ark’ feel.

Love & great adventure to you all,
Darla

June 12th – Oa-POU

Hi to all friends and family

We arrived in Ua-Pou after an overnight sail of 110 miles from FATA HIVA
and got anchored around 1 PM. We are loving it. Just had a moving
interaction and connection with a Marquesan family that invited us to a
snack of assorted dishes with pork & mushrooms, goat & onions & coconut
milk, as well as taro root seafood and coconut milk, baguettes, and
beer. Tomorrow we are off to check in with the Gendarmes, explore more
of the town, and get some more provisions.

Love to all
Jim

June 11th-Fata- Hiva to Ua-Pou

Hello everyone-

This morning we went ashore to do some trading/purchasing of tapa cloth,
wood carvings, fruit & fish & to say goodbye to our new Marquesan
friends. They are such sweet, open, beautiful people. Fatu-Hiva is the
most pristine village I’ve ever been to & nearly the most primitive. The
combination of rugged, dramatic scenery and humid tropical warmth give
it a fairy-tale feel. We pulled up anchors at noon and are now underway
toward Ua-Pou. We should arrive there late tomorrow.

Love,
Darla