JULY AND THE ARRIVAL OF GUESTS
On the Fourth of July Pam, Nicky, and Lee arrived, our visiting crew from Byron Bay, Australia. The women are all friends through an ocean swimming club. Each morning they don their “cossies “(swimming costume) and jump off the dock for a swim.
Donning “Cossies” and jumping “in”
After a few days of relaxing in Savusavu and getting supplies six of us (three women, Jim, Alice, and Bogi) headed off for a sailing adventure. A short one and a half hour sail from Savusavu is split rock and Jean Cousteau’s Marine reserve and resort. This is a great place for snorkeling. We stayed for couple of days swimming and snorkeling in the water and exploring the resort. We enjoyed lounging on the beach chairs, hammocks, and using the opportunity to take freshwater showers.
Bogi and fish
Exploring Cousteau’s beach
From Cousteau’s we headed to Fawn Harbor, spend one night there, then on to Boca Bay, where Bogi’s village is located.
Captain Jim shouting orders, Nicky intimidated
The Handsome captain
Jim and Bogi at the helm
Ladies relaxing on the foredeck
Sunset Fawn Harbor
Bogi’s village
The following morning we went into the village where lovo was being prepared for us. Lovo is a traditional way of cooking. Rocks are heated on burning wood. Rice and fish are soaked in coconut milk and wrapped in taro leaves. These bundles are placed on the hot rocks along with cassava and taro root. More rocks are placed on top. Everything is left to cook for hours.
Preparing Lovo
Nicky and Lee swimming
While the lovo was cooking we took a guided river trip in the dinghy. After going about two miles up the river, Nicky, Lee and Pam got out for a swim. Lee and Nicky remained in the water letting the current assist them in their swim all the way back to the village.
After a shower and a bit of laundry, we went to the neighboring village to visit the school. The school is in a lovely setting on a hill with a view of the bay. Nicky and Lee are both school teachers and had brought books to donate. The teachers seemed happy to have them take over a couple of classes. At noon classes were let out for lunch. Many of the mothers came to the school to have a picnic lunch with their children. Then it was time for us to eat lovo, take a nap and go for a walk around the village and to the beach.
After a shower and a bit of laundry, we went to the neighboring village to visit the school. The school is in a lovely setting on a hill with a view of the bay. Nicky and Lee are both school teachers and had brought books to donate. The teachers seemed happy to have them take over a couple of classes. At noon classes were let out for lunch. Many of the mothers came to the school to have a picnic lunch with their children. Then it was time for us to eat lovo, take a nap and go for a walk around the village and to the beach.
Lee hanging laundry
Nicky teaching
Alice and Jim walk around village
Nicky’s balancing act on the beach
That evening a couple of women from the village joined us on INTENTION to do some fishing from the deck. They came with bright lights, fishing line wrapped around bottles and gooey bait. There was lots of laughter and sticky fingers, but only two very small fish were caught, neither worth keeping.
We did not go completely without fresh fish. While sailing Bogi put out trawling lines. The afternoon we sailed into Buca Bay a fish was hooked. None of us know what kind it was. It was dark gray, had one yellow top fin and no scales. Nicky and I filleted the fish which fed all of us.
Richard came by bus to the village with his visiting crew, Anna. Our last evening at Buca Bay, Bogi arranged for a group of musicians to come on board INTENTION and provide us with a farewell concert. Richard and Anna were on board also. After a while it was time for them to retire so Bogi brought them to the village in the dinghy. He said he would return shortly. Hours went by and Bogi did not return. The musicians continued to play even after they ran out of kava. We were all getting sleepy, a bit cold and wondered what the heck was going on. Finally Bogi came back in a large fishing boat with Richard and Anna on board as well as other folks from the village, towing the dinghy behind. Apparently the dinghy had gotten loose at the village and drifted out toward open water. Bogi marshaled forces to scour the bay, in search of the dinghy, that was at last found miles away not far from the entrance to the bay. We are thankful for the large lights the fishing folks have and that the current and wind were not any stronger.
We did not go completely without fresh fish. While sailing Bogi put out trawling lines. The afternoon we sailed into Buca Bay a fish was hooked. None of us know what kind it was. It was dark gray, had one yellow top fin and no scales. Nicky and I filleted the fish which fed all of us.
Richard came by bus to the village with his visiting crew, Anna. Our last evening at Buca Bay, Bogi arranged for a group of musicians to come on board INTENTION and provide us with a farewell concert. Richard and Anna were on board also. After a while it was time for them to retire so Bogi brought them to the village in the dinghy. He said he would return shortly. Hours went by and Bogi did not return. The musicians continued to play even after they ran out of kava. We were all getting sleepy, a bit cold and wondered what the heck was going on. Finally Bogi came back in a large fishing boat with Richard and Anna on board as well as other folks from the village, towing the dinghy behind. Apparently the dinghy had gotten loose at the village and drifted out toward open water. Bogi marshaled forces to scour the bay, in search of the dinghy, that was at last found miles away not far from the entrance to the bay. We are thankful for the large lights the fishing folks have and that the current and wind were not any stronger.
Richard climbed the mast for this one
The following morning it was time to say farewell to Nicky and Lee. They caught the morning bus back to Savusavu. They were scheduled to fly out the next day. We all had great fun together, much laughter. We will miss them.
We stayed one more night in Buca Bay and then set sail for Taveuni. Pam and I were already not feeling well. We had the “squishies,” diarrhea. Thank God Bogi had stayed on board to sail with us. Pam and I were both useless. We originally planned to spend the following day sailing around to the other side of Taveuni where the waterfalls are located. I had been looking forward to a good long hike. Now I found myself feverish and unable to get out of bed except to go to the toilet. It was decided the best thing to do was to head back to Savusavu as quickly as possible. The wind was right. Jim and Bogi sailed INTENTION back to Cousteau’s arriving after dark. That evening Jim felt illness coming on. We were all grateful it was just a short sail the following day back to the dock. Upon returning we learned that Richard and Anna had been sick also. They’d found out that some medication was available. Jim made the trip into town to the doctor/pharmacist and we all began a five day regimen of antibiotics.
We got well just in time for Rae’s arrival. Rae is a long time friend and swimming buddy of Pam’s. She also enjoys a morning swim off the dock.
For three days there was a cultural carnival in Savusavu. The carnival consisted of one ferris wheel, a couple of rows of food booths on either side of a grassy area. At the head of the grassy area was the stage where those who sponsored the event could sit. The grassy area was the place for the performances and for the audience to sit and stand. Rae and I, Alice, went two evenings to see the dancing. There was “Robi” dances the first evening we went. The following evening there was Bollywood performances. Bollywood, I guess that is India’s copy of Hollywood. The first evening was very enjoyable. The Robi dancing is from a certain part of Fiji where a Tahitian/Hawaiian type dancing is done. There were woven leaves around the hips and great gyrations. There were also a couple of performances by young men who danced like Michael Jackson or did the robot. Rae and I laughed and smiled through all of it, so much so that Rae’s cheeks were sore. The following evening we went to the Bollywood show. There were ongoing problems with the sound system. Overall we did not find these dances as interesting, an imitation of what is done in current Indian films. It was also fun to hear the constant screaming in the background. The ferris wheel had a continuous line of those desiring to ride. The people were packed five or six in a seat and it seemed that all the riders screamed throughout the turning.
We stayed one more night in Buca Bay and then set sail for Taveuni. Pam and I were already not feeling well. We had the “squishies,” diarrhea. Thank God Bogi had stayed on board to sail with us. Pam and I were both useless. We originally planned to spend the following day sailing around to the other side of Taveuni where the waterfalls are located. I had been looking forward to a good long hike. Now I found myself feverish and unable to get out of bed except to go to the toilet. It was decided the best thing to do was to head back to Savusavu as quickly as possible. The wind was right. Jim and Bogi sailed INTENTION back to Cousteau’s arriving after dark. That evening Jim felt illness coming on. We were all grateful it was just a short sail the following day back to the dock. Upon returning we learned that Richard and Anna had been sick also. They’d found out that some medication was available. Jim made the trip into town to the doctor/pharmacist and we all began a five day regimen of antibiotics.
We got well just in time for Rae’s arrival. Rae is a long time friend and swimming buddy of Pam’s. She also enjoys a morning swim off the dock.
For three days there was a cultural carnival in Savusavu. The carnival consisted of one ferris wheel, a couple of rows of food booths on either side of a grassy area. At the head of the grassy area was the stage where those who sponsored the event could sit. The grassy area was the place for the performances and for the audience to sit and stand. Rae and I, Alice, went two evenings to see the dancing. There was “Robi” dances the first evening we went. The following evening there was Bollywood performances. Bollywood, I guess that is India’s copy of Hollywood. The first evening was very enjoyable. The Robi dancing is from a certain part of Fiji where a Tahitian/Hawaiian type dancing is done. There were woven leaves around the hips and great gyrations. There were also a couple of performances by young men who danced like Michael Jackson or did the robot. Rae and I laughed and smiled through all of it, so much so that Rae’s cheeks were sore. The following evening we went to the Bollywood show. There were ongoing problems with the sound system. Overall we did not find these dances as interesting, an imitation of what is done in current Indian films. It was also fun to hear the constant screaming in the background. The ferris wheel had a continuous line of those desiring to ride. The people were packed five or six in a seat and it seemed that all the riders screamed throughout the turning.
Rae had been here nearly a week when it looked like the wind and weather may be OK to sail to Namena, a marine reserve. Namena is a four hour sail past Cousteau’s. Just beyond Cousteau’s is a reef. It isn’t until one is past the opening of the reef that one can assess the conditions. About two hours outside the reef, the seas and winds not getting any calmer, we decided to turn around and go back to Cousteau’s. We have heard that there is no sheltered anchorage at Namena and we would have had to endure a rough, rocky, night. There was more snorkeling at Cousteau’s over the next few days. The discovery of some large, colorful clams added interest. Again there was the opportunity for a fresh water shower.
Rae pointing out shower
Colorful
I finally did get a chance for a hike. Not far from Cousteau’s is the steep road up to Bogi’s hillside home. The five of us dinghied onto the beach and hiked up. After a brief rest at a house about half way up, we took a further walk all the way up to the top. From that high point we could see the ocean on the other side also. What a fabulous view from on top of a windy hill.
View from part way up the hill
Jim pushing Alice up the hill
After spending four days out we returned to Savusavu. Back at the dock we have our normal rituals, morning swim and sunset glass of wine in the cock pit. Rae taught us a card game, Frustration, that we played three nights in a row. On the evening of the 30th of July we had a going away, birthday party celebration complete with chocolate cake. The morning of the 31st it was time to say “moce” Fijian for good bye. We will miss our guests. It has been a great experience living in close quarters. Sometimes like rocks in a tumbler we are polishing our rough edges, other times like a party of best friends. It has been enriching. Currently Jim and Alice are relaxing and taking lots of space, relatively, until our next arrival in a few days.
Jim icing the cake
Pam and Rae enjoyed the party
Rainbow the morning of their departure